Gyfelan Bach is a spacious site with practical utilities and a beautiful sea view.  It is not the most accessible site in the world especially when towing a 7.4m German ’van that is wider than a typical British rig.  But the tight squeeze into to the farm and the chicane around the rusting JCB and the ancient Mercedes Benz are worth the effort. Access is hindered by the person who wrote the directions to the site.  The more practical route is to arrive at Gyfelan Bach from the northeast (via Llangwynnadl) and make a RIGHT turn into the narrow gate at a gentle angle… rather than arriving from the south (as per the book) and having to make a LEFT turn that describes an acute angle that feels like (but isn’t) a hairpin.  The roads from the north also have more passing places. Arrangements for water, toilet disposal, rubbish etc fine and there are toilets and a shower for those who inexplicably will not use the facilities in their ’vans. The land slopes gently towards the sea and faces due west.  To enjoy the sunset through your front window you might need a brick under your jockey wheel to compensate for the slope – but the sunsets during the 2nd week in June 2015 were outrageous! I could almost hear the hiss as the sun touched the horizon and sank into the Irish Sea. The phone signal to the site is dodgy.  The 3 network (piggy backing on Vodaphone I think) was consistently good enough for ’phone calls and SMS but hopeless for data.  O2 was not just awful (non existent actually) but it occasionally jumped on to O2 Ireland and roaming charges apply.  Is that better than nothing or a bit of a swizz? I failed to get a TV picture but I didn't try too hard as the view from the window was better than the 165 channels of mediocrity on FreeView. Local shops, cafes, pubs and filling stations are anything but local.  Take ample supplies and keep your tank full.   This was my first trip to the Lleyn for 50 years.  I’m going back in less than 50 days.  The scenery is fantastic and it feels kind of Cornish in a Western Isles sort of way.  Climb the local hills (by car) to various masts and transmitting stations and you can see across Cardigan Bay to Harlech and Barmouth.  The Coastal Path is accessible from Gyfelan Bach.  Jane Ryan is an amiable and well informed host.