Newbie with twin axle levelling issues

You're ok to support the caravan on the steadies while you adjust the jockey wheel. And yes, you'd be better mover-ing the caravan while the jockey wheel is not extended. I'd doubt you've damaged anything though .

No problem lifting the wheel while the steadies are down.

What type of mover do you have?  Ours is a 2 wheel one, fitted to the front wheels, so we always have the jockey wheel low to put more of the weight on the driven wheels, and that also puts less strain on the jockey wheel.  

Lock and level gets good reviews but IMO is expensive.  We just use some decking boards/offcuts.  One long one and 4 short pieces.

You’ve got the right idea, Oakest. Raise the van in stages using the steadies as described and always lower the nose when using the mover.

We managed for 40 years with home made ramps and blocks of wood and never found the need to buy any expensive levelling gear.

Enjoy your van.

I am also very new to caravanning and bought a twin axle. I was recommended the lock and level when on a club training course. I purchased the twin and single bags and as yet have not used the single one in the five trips we have made since 1st May.

The van is stored in a secure lock up and the insurance requires both Alco locks be fitted. I have tended to use the jack to fit the second lock rather than use the airbags and leave them in situ.

I was advised on the training course to swop the plastic jockey wheel for an inflatable one as they roll over gravel rather than dig in. You can get gel ones as well. Plastic one can remain in a locker in case you get a flat.

I have been using Lock 'n Level, on a twin axle van, for the last 5 years and wouldn't be without it. It takes me about 5 minutes to fit both Alko locks - and level the van. I did once try to use the hydraulic trolley jack that came with our new Knaus and it was almost impossible.  The AWD motor movers block access to the jacking points and the amount of pressure required to lift the van was unbelievable.

Using boards etc to level is OK - and a cheap solution - but they don't assist in fitting the wheel locks. 

L 'n L particularly scores for me when pitched on soft ground where I don't think the use of jacks, of whatever sort, are safe. I would also advise a heavy duty rubber mat to go underneath it on gravel pitches to minimise the risk of a puncture.

Another tip is to make sure, when using the L 'n L, that the jockey wheel is raised to its full extent when inflating the air bag - it assists in giving the front wheel a bit more lift.

Thanks - I have also got a jack - but I suspect that will need to be on a raised base as well to get the front wheel off the ground (the jacking point is at behind the second axle). I think I'm beginning to realise the importance of wooden blocks!

Thanks for your feedback

Thanks for the advice - particularly raising the jockey wheel with the Lock and level. Just ordered the combo pack so will hopefully have now resolved future levelling challenges!

To fit Alko locks on a twin axle without expense, first line up and fit the rear (i.e. non-mover wheel) lock. Then move the caravan forward to line up the front one. The locked wheel will slide the inch or so needed, and one could get a couple of those worktop protector plastic sheets sold in 10s in Aldi/Lidl for a couple of quid to put under the wheel. Remember to put the slippy sides together, or just use a copy of the club magazine.

If blocks are required, set that up first then move the caravan off to get the plastic sheets/magazine into the right place. I have seen one person using blocks reverse the caravan with the ramp block (at the rear) removed so the rear wheel hung on the suspension, and then rotate the wheel so the spokes were in same alignment as the front.  Not tried it myself, but have done something similar to change a wheel.

All 4 of my caravan wheels have a mover .... 😉

I would like to see this work - have you actually done it? The strain on the wheel lock already fitted must be tremendous- I can’t see how it would simply slide as you suggest. Sometimes, the wheel lock positions are out by 180 degrees, so I don’t get the ‘only having to move the wheel an inch or two’. Perhaps I am missing something - could you explain?