Adventures in Snowdonia
Marcus Leach from the Big European Odyssey returns to North Wales to explore Eryri with the whole family.
Home, as they say, is where the heart is and a little piece of my heart has resided in north Wales ever since I first started going there as a young boy. Which is why the week we spent based at Coed-y-Llwyn exploring the surrounding area felt like coming home after almost two years on the road for the Big European Odyssey.
Having not visited for almost three years we were happy to find that, other than the name, it’s now known by its Welsh name of Eryri, nothing much has changed in and around the national park. What has changed, however, is us as people. The past two years of travel, full of life-changing experiences, ensured we arrived with a different outlook on the world. Despite a new outlook it didn’t take long to be reminded that, for all of the wonderful far off places we reached in our motorhome, home is home.
Being based at Coed-y-Llwyn enabled us to make the most of our five days, even though we had a few rainy ones, but then who doesn’t when visiting this part of the world. The site itself is one of the very best we have stayed at on the Club’s UK network, with up-to-date facilities, a beautiful setting and a big focus on tranquility for families. Here’s a little inspiration for your own travels….
Where to Walk: Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park is blessed with an almost endless array of wonderful walks, ranging from gentle riverside ambles to full day mountain hikes, it all just depends what you’re looking for. While the masses flock to Snowdonia itself there are, in our opinion, more beautiful walks, the pick of which is the family-friendly loop up to and around Cwm Idwal. The walk is just over four kilometres in length, but can be shortened if all you want to do is get to the lake and play by the water’s edge. The lake itself remains hidden on the way up the gradually ascending path, dramatically revealed once the path levels out, a cirque of sheer cliffs surrounding it.
Where to Cycle: The mountains are not just rife with walking routes, there are any number of cycling routes available as well, both on and off road. Starting from the campsite itself there is a lovely and fairly easy out and back ride around Llyn Trawsfynydd Reservoir, suitable for all types of bikes. For those feeling a little more energetic one of the UK’s most iconic climbs is located just ten kilometres from the campsite. Starting at a locked gate at the bottom, the almost two mile ascent up to Stwlan Dam is as beautiful as it is challenging, rewarding those who take it on with spectacular views from the summit.
Where to Escape the Rain: We have been visiting Wales long enough to know that no matter what time of year you visit, including the summer, there’s always the chance that you’ll get a few rainy days. So what do you do when it rains and you’re visiting Coed-y-Llwyn? We have two recommendations for you. The first is to head to Zip World in Blaenau Ffestiniog and head underground on one of their many activities, the pick of which is Bounce Below. For something a little less energetic, but equally as interesting, there’s King Arthur’s Labyrinth, where you can sail you through a magical waterfall and deep into the mountains of Southern Snowdonia to a mysterious land of legends and storytelling.
Where to Eat: For a touch of nostalgia there’s a fish and chip van that comes to the village where the campsite is on Wednesday evenings, as well as a good pub serving a variety of meals opposite the site entrance. Looking a little further afield there’s a seriously good pizza restaurant in Betws-y-Coed by the railway station, Hangin’ Pizzeria, that also does takeaways. For Sunday roast head to the Cross Foxes.
Don’t Miss: A visit to the picturesque village of Portmeirion is a must while staying at Coed-y-Llwyn. Such is the beauty and style of the village that you would be forgiven for thinking that you’d stepped through a travel portal and arrived in Italy. It boasts unique architecture, sub-tropical gardens, coastal elegance and an authentic gelato bar adding to the Italian feel.