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Start enjoying great savingsDiscover the history of Newcastle Castle, a Grade I listed monument that offers an engaging, interactive experience for all ages.
Of all the words I could have learned while visiting Newcastle, ‘bathmophobia’ wasn’t on my bingo card. It means a phobia of stairs, and I discovered this while visiting the eponymous Castle of Newcastle upon Tyne. With around 260 steps (best guess, but it felt like more), winding through and around 18 chambers and across two separate towers, this is the perfect excursion for history buffs, urban explorers, or those who just love a good old game of hide-and-seek.
Originally founded in 1080 as a wooden tower on the site of a Roman fort, the ‘new’ castle was later rebuilt in stone, in the Norman style, to counter rebels and marauding Scots. Its Keep has housed royalty (both friend and foe), been used as a garrison, high-status home, court, prison, and even brewery cellars. As the town’s defensive walls expanded, the castle buildings fell into disuse and the area surrounding them became slums. When industrialisation came, what was left of the castle was cleaved apart by a railway line that still divides it today.
Restored by the local Society of Antiquaries, the castle is now recognised as a Grade I listed monument comprising two separate buildings. The Black Gate was once the castle’s barbican and now acts as its reception, ticket office and educational centre. The top floor houses an interesting exhibition of the area’s history, with particular emphasis on its time as a slum, including a bank of vintage cabinets and drawers that invite you to be nosy and inspect the artefacts within.
Passing under the railway bridge, the main attraction is the Keep itself. From its basement dungeons and Royal Chapel (apparently one of the best examples of Norman stone carving in England) to its crenellated open rooftop, which gives panoramic views across the city – this is a vertical warren to get lost in. Fight over who gets the throne and who is a serf in the imposing Great Hall, play dress-up in the garderobe, put loved ones in the stocks, compare the King’s Chamber with Mary Bruce’s prison cell, wonder at the kitchen well that’s two floors up, and look for masons’ marks (proof of work to guarantee payment) and scratched graffiti left by occupants throughout history. There’s even a mystery staircase that goes… nowhere, that demands investigation.
I liked that there wasn’t an overload of information or directions, apart from the very useful museum in the Lower Hall, as half the fun was the exploring. But an audio guide is on its way for those who prefer a more structured tour.
It was only at the end of my visit that I thought to ask how many steps there are in total. And it was only when I discovered that the museum didn’t know for sure, that I regretted not counting them myself. Unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be a specific word for a ‘stair enthusiast’, so we’ll just have to invent one.
Suggestions?
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Stay at: Durham Grange, Old Hartley Club campsites