Visit Chillingham Castle with our Great Savings Guide

A restored medieval castle, soaked in 700 years of bloody history and allegedly the most haunted in Britain, full of eclectic antiquities, it resembles a wondrous flea-market, and is surrounded by beautiful formal gardens, a lakeside walk and Britain’s only wild cattle herd - where was this when I last holidayed in Northumberland?

The answer is: it’s always been here. The much-besieged Chillingham Castle, near the historic town of Alnwick, has been pivotal to Anglo-Scottish border feuds since its fortifications began in 1344. Owned by a single bloodline ever since, it has hosted royalty (including King Edward I, en route to fighting Mel Gibson) and imprisoned Scots. The torture instruments used on site are displayed - and the souls of their victims are said to remain too!

Its latest guardian, Sir Humphrey Wakefield (ex-Army, Arctic explorer and antiques dealer), has filled the castle with an idiosyncratic jumble of heirlooms, curios, and souvenirs. And when I say ‘filled’, I mean ‘FILLED’.  Hardly a surface is left bare. Stuffed ram heads perch on chairs, next to urns brimming with walking sticks, tennis rackets, or swords. Coronation seats (seats used in actual coronations) casually prop doors open. As your eyes flit from military tunics and Tibetan horns to old telephones, rocking horses and Christmas cards from the Queen Mother, you might not even notice the Gatling gun tucked behind the sofa. Even the stairs are piled with items, and the walls are clad with ship flags, theatrical props, or obscure religious icons.

Living areas are viewed from behind ropes, but for the most part, Sir Humphrey's collection is laid out for close inspection. A Spanish Witch’s curse protects the castle’s contents, and letters beneath her portrait attest to its power - as guilty visitors return ‘borrowed’ items.

I’d recommend picking up the guidebook. Written by Sir Humphrey himself, it contains a wealth of anecdotes behind each room’s history and objects, giving context to a largely uncaptioned collection.

The high-ceilinged minstrel’s hall now serves as a welcoming tea-room, with a crackling fire and a cracking menu. Regroup and recharge - watched over by a giant ice-age elk’s skull, obviously - then do the tour again, as you’re bound to have missed something the first time.

At the top of the castle, beside its most haunted room, is a parapet viewpoint overlooking the formal gardens below. Designed by Sir Jeffry Wyatville (of Windsor Castle gardens fame), it’s home to the longest herbaceous border in northern England. Wander through, and you’ll find maze-like hedges concealing tranquil inner spaces and quiet benches around gently bubbling fountains. After the eclectic barrage of the castle’s contents, it’s a calming contrast you’ll be very grateful for.

Member saving: 10% discount on standard entry with the Great Savings Guide. Find out more here.

Stay at: River Breamish, Berwick Seaview Club campsites.

Please visit camc.com/greatsavingsguide for vouchers, discount codes, and pre-booking where applicable, along with terms and conditions for all offers. Make sure to check the site and attraction opening dates and times before your visit or travel.