A Yorkshire diary
Philip Moon explores a spectacular stretch of England’s coast by bus, boat, bike and on foot
Scarborough’s South Bay with the castle visible on the headland. Photo by member Clare Viles
If you want unspoiled beaches, come to Yorkshire.” That was the message from one Club member at the start of my latest trip. My focus was the wonderful coastline of East and North Yorkshire, and while the beaches were indeed spectacular, beyond the sand I found fantastic cliff-top walking, cycling tracks, birdwatching and lovely seaside towns waiting to be explored.
My base for the first three nights of my trip was Bridlington Club Campsite in the East Riding of Yorkshire. It’s a large but quiet site surrounded by trees, lying on the north side of Bridlington close to the village of Sewerby. Like the other Club sites I visited, pitches are generous and, importantly, there is a good bus service which runs from just outside the entrance.
My first activity was a boat trip aboard the Yorkshire Belle from Bridlington Harbour up to the white cliffs of Flamborough Head. It was late afternoon and this one-hour trip provided a great orientation to the area. Other longer experiences are available, including some that are run in collaboration with the RSPB to the waters off Bempton Cliffs.
Bridlington, which brands itself the ‘lobster capital of Europe’, is a bustling sea fishing port. Its front is lined with fairground rides and amusement arcades, which, although not quite my cup of tea, are great for a balanced family holiday.
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Fit for a king
The following day I decided to tackle the coastal trail from Flamborough Head to Filey along what is now known as the King Charles III England Coast Path.
It’s reckoned to be about 10 miles, so I had worked out a couple of back-up plans for shorter routes should my stamina fail.
I took the bus the short distance to my starting point, North Landing, from which it is three miles to Bempton Cliffs. At the time of my visit (August) they were teeming with gannets. An RSPB volunteer explained to me that the black birds I could see nestling in the crevices were the chicks. Apparently it takes five years for them to fully lose their black feathers and evolve into the cream and white of the adult. Fascinating though the gannets were, one of the best times to visit Bempton is from April to June when the cliffs are populated by nesting puffins – a sight and experience not to be missed.
By now it was time for tea and cake, so I visited the reserve’s café. While enjoying my repast, I took a look at some of the information boards. One details the dreadful plight of fulmars, which are regularly ingesting large amounts of plastic, and whose numbers have fallen by 30% since 2000. We are admonished to reduce our use of plastic and I humbly take note.
Three miles or so from Bempton, I found a signpost suggesting it was still six miles to Filey. At that point it looked as though my walk was going to be nearer 12 miles than 10. Not 20 yards on, another sign points at a right angle and declares Filey to be four miles away. Preferring four to six,
I took this alternative path, which led me down the steep cliff to the beach. The tide was high, so I checked with a couple of anglers whether it was on its way up or down. Reassured I wouldn’t be cut off, I proceeded. The receding tide provided some firm wet sand to walk on. Kids were playing in the sea. Don’t they feel the cold like normal people do?
Eventually, I arrived in Filey. It’s a genteel town with Georgian-style buildings and attractive public gardens.
I wished I had more time to look around, but I needed to head for the bus station and journey back to my caravan.
On the double
The next morning I set out to visit the two Club campsites around Scarborough. My first was Scarborough West Ayton, located on the edge of a small village about four miles south-west of Scarborough itself. It’s a lovely, spacious site with a massive playing field for the kids, and an enclosed dog field. As you’d expect, the site is immaculate, a tribute to the Club’s staff. The much-praised Ye Olde Forge Valley Inn is 10 minutes’ walk away, and there’s a good bus service.
I chat to Club member Alaistair, a repeat visitor to West Ayton who was full of praise for the consistency of all the Club’s sites. “With the Club, you know what you’re going to get, and you know it’s going to be good,” he says.
Next on the itinerary was Cayton Village Club Campsite, only a five-minute drive from the fabulous beach at Cayton Bay. Site Manager Ryan is very proud of the site and its many facilities, which include a restaurant, bar and communal firepit. As well as pitches for caravans and motorhomes, and an area for tents, there are also Experience Freedom cabins, pods and yurts available. “It means we can accommodate mixed groups,” explains Ryan. “Some family members bring their caravan while others hire a pod or yurt, and others bring a tent.” Before leaving the area, I visited the lovely sandy beach, which is home to a café and surf school.
My last visit in the area was to Diamond Wood Certificated Location (CL) on the outskirts of Flixton, about six miles from Filey. It’s a quiet, adults-only site with lovely views to the hills; facilities include a shower and toilet. Hosts Susan and William are charming, and I was even lucky enough to be presented with a bag of plums from the on-site tree!
Now, though, it was time to head into Scarborough for the evening entertainment. I had a ticket for the Stephen Joseph Theatre and the classic farce, Noises Off. Seating is ‘in the round’ and, as I was in the second row, I felt as though I was almost on the stage. It’s a clever drama based around a group of actors rehearsing and performing a play. True to the genre, there’s plenty of missed cues, missed lines and general slapstick fun.
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Moor to enjoy
The next morning saw me moving up the coast to my second base, North Yorkshire Moors Club Campsite, around five miles south of Whitby. Nestled in the North York Moors National Park, away from any hustle and bustle, the site is surrounded by trees and there’s an abundance of flora and fauna – bats, voles, hares, barn owls and various bird life calls this area home. It’s a great base for exploring both coast and countryside and offers peace and quiet, but do note that there’s no shower or toilet block.
I was set on visiting Whitby – a lovely town that is home to good beaches and a vibrant harbour where crabbing is extremely popular with families. The town is dominated by the ruins of the Benedictine abbey, now an English Heritage site. I climbed the 199 steps up to it, but unfortunately it had already closed for the day. Nonetheless, I was rewarded with some magnificent views over the town and coast.
Track events
On my final day I got up early and drove myself and my bike the 4.5 miles to Robin Hood’s Bay, from where I would hit the Cinder Track, an old railway line that stretches from Whitby to Scarborough. Site Manager Andy had warned me that if I cycled to the start point there would be a long, steep hill on the return journey, but also that parking could be difficult. My early start paid off and I had no difficulty leaving my car at the now disused railway station. If you don’t have your own two wheels, Cinder Bike Hire at the station offers both traditional and electric bikes.
Robin Hood’s Bay to Scarborough is 16 miles. Railway lines, being graded, usually offer fairly gentle cycling, but the first part of my journey up to Ravenscar was surprisingly (though not overly) steep. Thereafter it’s gently downhill.
Pleased to be spending a bit more time in Scarborough, I made a beeline for its historic castle. The ruins you see today are the remains of the 12th-century fortification built by Henry II and King John. It has seen plenty of action over the years, having been attacked by Parliamentarians during the Civil War, Napoleon and even the German navy at the outbreak of the Second World War.
Back in Robin Hood’s Bay, I left my bike and walked down to the village. This must be a leading contender for ‘quaintest seaside village in England’. Yes, it has plenty of visitors, but it’s not excessively ‘touristy’. There are cafés, pubs, gift shops and an excellent fishmonger offering crab and other local seafood. It was well worth the visit, but, boy was it a steep climb back up to my car.
I certainly needed an early night. The next day it was time for me to pack up and head home − after all, I had an article to write about a fantastic week’s holiday on the Yorkshire coast.
Illustration by Louise Turpin
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