Fell the force

Robbie Roams enjoys a spiritual connection on a hunt for the enchanting waterfalls of north-east England

Left: Ashgill Force. Right: Low Force

For me, few things can match the joy of tracking down a stunning waterfall during a road trip or a weekend escape in my campervan. I’m not entirely sure whether it’s something spiritual – otherworldly, even – that draws me in, but there’s definitely a pull that I find hard to resist.

As a seasoned travel writer and genuine waterfall enthusiast, I’ve been fortunate enough to witness many of the UK’s most iconic cascades. Which is precisely why I was so pleasantly surprised by what I discovered on a recent adventure in County Durham and Northumberland.

If you thought the highlights of the north-east of England were limited to mighty castles, dramatic coastlines and deep-rooted history, it’s time to think again. Carving through ancient woodland, cascading in windswept moorlands and tumbling down rugged cliffs, the waterfalls of this region are among the most captivating in the country.

A waterfall-spotting adventure offers the perfect excuse to step outdoors, breathe in fresh air, capture a memorable photograph and – more often than not – enjoy an experience that’s completely free (or, at the very least, relatively affordable).

When scouting waterfalls for my guidebooks, there are a few essential boxes I like to tick. First and foremost: accessibility. The very nature of a waterfall can mean it’s tucked away in a spot that’s not the easiest to reach, particularly if you have limited mobility. So I was naturally pleased by how many falls in this part of England can be reached via manageable paths, including a few that are relatively flat.

Secondly, I consider the ‘wow’ factor. Let me assure you – these waterfalls delivered that in abundance. From thundering plunges to delicate woodland cascades, each had its own unique charm that left me in awe.

Lastly, there’s visual appeal. As someone with a real passion for landscape photography, waterfalls are dream subjects. There’s something truly rewarding about capturing the perfect shot – then reliving the moment when you upload your photos to your laptop.

Any tour of this corner of the country would be incomplete without a visit to the historic city of Durham, crowned by its magnificent cathedral. And the welcoming Durham Grange Club Campsite is the ideal base for exploration.

From there, the route towards the sweeping landscapes of the North Pennines National Landscape is nothing short of breathtaking. En route, make time for a visit to pretty Barnard Castle (the location of another great Club campsite).

Summer lovin’

Summerhill Force

First up is Summerhill Force and the mysterious Gibson’s Cave at Newbiggin – a dream for any waterfall enthusiast. Your adventure starts at the Bowlees Visitor Centre, which offers ample parking, even for larger campervans. From the car park, a peaceful woodland trail follows the stream for about 10 minutes until the distant sound of falling water draws you in.

Suddenly, you emerge into a magical, amphitheatre-like setting where the waterfall tumbles dramatically in front of a shadowy cave. This is Gibson’s Cave, named after William Gibson, a 16th-century outlaw said to have hidden behind the falling torrent while locals brought him food and dry clothes. Whether you’re interested in folklore or taking that perfect snap, this spot delivers.

Once you’ve taken in the spectacle properly, it’s time to return to the Bowlees Visitor Centre. And the good news is that your next waterfall adventure begins from the same car park!

Simply walk past the visitor centre, cross the main road and follow the signs for Low Force. Fans of The Witcher might recognise this spot – it featured in the hit TV series. But even if you’re not into fantasy dramas, the raw energy of the falls is a thrill in itself.

One of the best spots from which to view the cascade is the ‘Wynch’ suspension bridge – built in 1830, it feels like something straight out of an Indiana Jones film!

For those with energy to spare, a trail continues from Low Force all the way to the magnificent High Force waterfall and back in a rewarding circular hike. However, I chose to drive and park at the High Force Hotel instead – less effort and more time for soaking it all in! There’s a small charge for parking and entry to the waterfall but, honestly, it’s worth every penny. Do check opening hours ahead of visiting (see raby.co.uk/high-force/waterfall) – you don’t want to miss this.

High Force provides the grand finale of this waterfall trio. With ticket in hand, cross the road to the marked entrance and follow a magical woodland path (keep your eyes peeled for red squirrels). A short but steep descent leads to the foot of England’s highest uninterrupted waterfall, the River Tees dropping an awe-inspiring 70ft (21m) into a deep plunge pool.

Go with the flow

Robbie at Hindhope Linn waterfall

Keen to see more? Then head deeper into the windswept hills of the North Pennines. Your next stop: Ashgill Force, just over the county border in Cumbria. It’s a hidden gem, reached via a scenic walk along the South Tyne Trail from Garrigill. Many people don’t even know it exists – but that’s all part of its quiet charm.

About an hour’s drive to the north, within Northumberland National Park, lies Hareshaw Linn. Starting in the delightful village of Bellingham, a trail leads to this truly magical waterfall. Be warned, it’s a bit of a challenge and less accessible than others – sturdy footwear is a must.

If that sounds a touch too ambitious, I can’t recommend Hindhope Linn enough – a true hidden treasure. Tucked away, just off the A68 near the England-Scotland border, it’s like stepping into another world. I have previously described Hindhope Linn as “Shrek’s swamp meets a tropical waterfall in Bali”, and I stand by that. The vibrant moss, lichens and rich greenery give it an almost fairytale feel. The walk itself is just as spellbinding as the destination and many locals don’t even realise it’s there.

Northumberland isn’t done yet. From the dramatic Three Sisters at Hen Hole in the Cheviots (make sure you do your research as this is not as accessible as some), to the graceful Linhope Spout, each offers something truly special. The Club’s River Breamish campsite would make a good base for visits to those.

So, if you’ve yet to explore this wilder side of County Durham and Northumberland, consider this your prompt. Pack your boots, grab your camera and get out there – you never know what hidden wonder you’ll find next.

Campervanner Robbie Roams is a travel writer for No Fuss Travel Guides.

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