Grapes and gorges

Marcus Leach discovers both the dramatic and the gentle during a break in Provence and Beaujolais

Sprawling vistas in Beaujolais

Much like its quality wines, France gets better with age. It had been 35 years since my first hop across the Channel, yet I had never previously explored the famous wine producing region of Beaujolais. With a family trip to Provence already planned, it seemed logical to adjust our usual return route from the south to take in the fabled vineyards.

First, though, there was the small matter of a week in Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the French Alps, the region includes coastal glamour spots such as Cannes, Nice and Saint-Tropez, while inland it is home to one of France’s most stunning natural wonders.

The Verdon Gorge is not only strikingly beautiful with its dramatic cliffs and pristine waters, it’s also a paradise for outdoor lovers – which would explain why we have been coming here for longer than I care to remember. Whether you’re into hiking, kayaking, cycling, paddleboarding, climbing or even paragliding, the gorge offers an endless array of adventures.

We couldn’t have chosen a better base than the five-star Domaine du Verdon campsite. Situated near the picture-perfect village of Castellane, this family-friendly site ranks as one of the finest we’ve stayed on in France. It boasts two modern swimming pools, a small fishing lake, activity centres for children, shops, restaurants and daily entertainment, all framed by the scenic beauty of the Verdon Natural Park. You could easily spend the days without ever leaving the site but, to truly experience the region, the drive south from Castellane along the D952 is not to be missed.

Near the Domaine du Verdon campsite

This winding route clings to the edges of the Verdon Gorge, ducking beneath rocky overhangs and threading through narrow passes, until it arrives at one of France’s most iconic driving and cycling loops. Here, the road seems to hover above the canyon, offering jaw-dropping views of the turquoise river far below.

Yet, as spectacular as the views from above are, the real magic lies on the water itself. If you don’t travel with a kayak or paddleboard, don’t worry, there are plenty of rental options at the top end of Lac de Sainte-Croix, where you can also hire pedal and small electric boats. Spending hours drifting through the gorge is the perfect way to soak up the area’s laid-back vibe.

Beyond the gorge, the region continues to charm with its scattering of Provençal villages. One of our favourites is Cotignac, particularly on market day. Held every Tuesday, the market retains an authentic, ‘local’ feel. By early morning, the main street, Cours Gambetta, is transformed into a vibrant tapestry of colourful stalls, offering everything from regional produce and traditional dishes to handcrafted goods and unique artisanal finds.

The spectacular Verdon Gorge

After the market, it’s worth taking time to wander the village itself. Cotignac’s narrow lanes are lined with pastel-hued homes, blooming window boxes and shaded squares where cafés spill out onto cobbled corners and conversations float on the air. At the northern end of the village, limestone cliffs hide a network of troglodyte caves, a fascinating step back into history.

Vine times

With the first half of our trip complete, it was time to begin the journey back north. We arrived in Beaujolais on the cusp of harvest time, the seemingly endless rows of immaculately-tended vines heavy with grapes and the late-summer sun casting a golden light across the rolling hills as farmers busied themselves in the fields.

I don’t actually drink – but even for someone with no real interest in the wine itself, there’s something quietly intoxicating in the rhythm and character of this lovely region. Our base was La Grappe Fleurie, a leafy, family-friendly campsite tucked into the folds of the countryside on the edge of the village of Fleurie. This site might be small but it has all of the offerings you’d expect from its bigger counterparts while maintaining a sense of intimacy.

Illustration by Louise Turpin

Our days here followed a similar pattern, starting slowly with coffee under the awning while the children played, before heading off to explore the surrounding area either on foot or on bikes. We soon discovered that Beaujolais moves at a different pace – it’s not a place you rush through, but rather one that invites you to slow down and focus on the little details.

The walk up to the Chapelle de la Madone became a daily ritual for me, a short climb above the village that offered sweeping views. Below, I could see workers moving through the rows of vines with a quiet purpose, preparing for the imminent harvest with the same steady care as those who’ve worked this land for generations.

Evenings at the campsite were a hive of activity and energy with many families, ours included, congregating around the daily rotating food trucks, children playing at the park and, more often than not, local wines being offered up for tasting. It all combined to create a wonderful sense of community.

Wanting to explore a little further afield, we made use of the site’s electric Citroën E-Méhari car, available for hire to all guests. Winding through villages with houses built from the local golden-coloured stone and passing between lines of trees standing sentinel on higher ground, it’s easy to see why the region is often called La Petite Toscane - Little Tuscany.

Rent the campsite’s electric car and explore the surrounding vineyards and villages.

In Beaujeu, we found La Maison du Terroir Beaujolais, a compact museum dedicated to the food, wine and culture of the region. It was a reminder that this land is not just scenic, it’s deeply storied and rooted in tradition.

With our time among the vines coming to an end, what stayed with me most wasn’t the wine, the food or even the landscape, but rather the feeling that here life is lived with a degree of gentleness. Beaujolais doesn’t try to impress you – it simply invites you in, slows you down and lets you rediscover the joy of noticing the world around you. A philosophy that we would all do well to apply no matter where in the world we are travelling.

• If Marcus has inspired you to explore France – or if you would like more information on either of the sites mentioned, visit camc.com/overseas.